Wednesday, 21 May 2014

RESTAURANT REVIEW: TOWNHALL, KHAN MARKET

 For the sushi (and the Japanese Lemonade)
 

Before we talk about anything else, we have to acknowledge what an exercise in ambition and resources Townhall is. With 2 storeys, 160 seats, multiple cuisines, and the Oberoi’s Master sushi chef Augusto Cabrera at the helm, it’s safe to say that Khan Market’s lanes haven’t had this kind of star power flung at them yet.

LOOKS LIKE

The “go big or go home” theme carries through to the interiors. The first floor is, by far, the single largest and grandest space in Khan and the rooftop the most expansive. I like that the first floor is split into separate rooms – allowing the restaurant to host private parties or small gatherings without getting in the way of walk in patrons.

 
TASTES LIKE

The menu is equally formidable, and includes Italian, French, Thai, Continental and of course, Japanese dishes. I’m skeptical of multi-cuisine restaurants as a rule but Townhall might just be the proverbial exception. If anyone has the culinary capital to pull off the long winded menu, it’s these guys. It seemed appropriate to start with Chef Cabrera’s signature rolls, we chose the Spicy Hamachi with Yellowtail and Wasabi. The rolls were gloriously fresh and so flavorful it seemed a shame to roll them around in soy, a generous layer of caviar had texture exploding in my mouth with every bite. We followed this up with the Townhall Antipasto Sharing Platter which comes with grilled prawn skewers, bocconcini and cherry tomato skewers, melons wrapped in parma ham and grilled red and green peppers with walnut bites. A generously portioned platter for two that could easily extend to three, I loved that each skewer and dip (down to the pesto that coated the bocconcini) was so obviously fresh. We concluded our culinary trip around the world with a French Baguette with Smoked Ham, Avocado and Tartar, which was, like each other dish, substantial and clearly just made with great quality ingredients. The star of the show, was unsurprisingly, the sushi but each dish held its own, even if under the shadow of what is clearly the Chef’s forte.

 
Townhall hasn’t managed to get its liquor license yet which is a crying shame because the gorgeous bar and lovely rooftop would be the perfect place to get a drink in Khan. I suppose its small consolation that our local licensing authorities don’t appear to respond to anyone irrespective of the size of the establishments applying. Currently they have a (no surprise here) vast range of non-alcoholic beverages to choose from, which I’m slowly and surely making my way through. My favorite is the peach flavored Japanese lemonade which comes from a banta bottle and is served with Kaffir lime leaves and a cherry – I’ve never tasted anything like it and I think I’m addicted. Next up is the watermelon juice which is light, refreshing and happily has no sugar added to it. If you’re feeling adventurous try the Gems and Mint Milkshake – a totally bizarre but absolutely delicious combination of flavors.
 
FEELS LIKE

This kind of scale inspires proportionate expectations and while Townhall is suffering through some teething trouble, I have great hopes from the place. The interiors are spectacular, as is the sushi and the staff. Once their cocktail menu is up, this is going to be the best way to spend an evening in Khan. Go before they get their liquor license and thirsty hordes descend upon Townhall. I love Townhall’s versatility, it’s pretty enough to take your date, the menu wide enough to accommodate the diverse tastes of a large family gathering and buttoned up enough for a post-work drink. There’s something for everyone at Townhall but my recommendation is to go with the sushi-lover in your life.
 

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