Showing posts with label Restaurant Review. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Restaurant Review. Show all posts

Tuesday, 27 January 2015

RESTAURANT REVIEW: TOIT, BANGALORE

For when you need the restaurant to get it right


I first visited Toit within a few months of its opening in 2010 but since I didn't have a food blog then this review is being written on the basis of my second visit, 4 years later. In summary, I started off as a fan and years later, still am. In a world that won't stop spinning the resilience of restaurants like Toit offer my whirling soul solace.
 
Looks Like
 
Toit has the advantage most visually memorable spaces display - fascinating architectural elements as opposed to an effort to invoke interest in a staid rectangular commercial space with superficial décor additions. When the fundamental structure of a restaurant is so engaging, for example Monkey Bar in Delhi or the rickety open Piccadilly in Bombay, you don't need pillar candles and bird cages to get people's attention. Toit is housed in a unique wooden barn on verdant 100 Ft Road in Bangalore.
 
The place, though usually packed (both in 2010 and 2014), still offers a sense of space and serenity because of the high slatted ceilings and open, sun dappled layout.
 
 
 
Tastes Like
 
The menu is fun with pub classics like Bangers and Mash. They're also known for their pizzas which come with a long (and interesting) list of toppings and a crust so thin it could give Cara Delevingne a complex. The crust is a delicate, crunchy platform for the cheese, sauce and munificent toppings.
 
The real revelation for me were the Scotch Eggs. I understand from my very knowledgeable friend that the dish Toit serves isn't authentic but they were three of the most perfectly soft boiled eggs resting on a bed of the world's butteriest mashed potatoes, flanked with spicy, hot lamb mince. I can't get them out of my head and I can't wait to try to recreate the dish on my Restaurant Recipe Rip Off series. 
 
Toit is also famously a microbrewery and implement a fantastically clever way to get people drunk. Order their sampler which sets out the beers in order from lightest to darkest and once you've tried them all, order the one you like best. The flavors range from incredibly mild (almost watery) to deep resounding coffee undertones.
 
 
 
Feels Like
 
Toit starts to get very loud and crowded by the evening, specially on weekends, and the staff seems overwhelmed by the crush of patrons. Getting a seat later in the day may require a long and tedious wait for a table. Go early unless you're prepared for the bustle.
 
 
 

RESTAURANT REVIEW: THE HUMMINGTREE, BANGALORE

For some of that amazing Bangalore breeze 
 

I really enjoy the ride down 100 ft Road - it's a straight, long, tree lined road with lots of buzzy, bright restaurants. I'll probably never get the chance to eat my way down the street but I'm delighted with each new place I get to try and the old favorites I've had memorable meals at.
 
If you've read my earlier reviews, you know I 'm partial to rooftops and balconies. I spend so much of my life in a cubicle that every moment spent out in fresh air is precious. Unfortunately, Delhi's weather ensures that the outdoors is only habitable for about four months in a year. When I land in Bangalore, having just escaped the bitter cold or grueling heat (as applicable) I immediately promise to move to the city for good. I doubt I will but Bangalore will always be my favorite Indian city for al fresco dining. A cup of coffee is better with a gentle breeze, the food more delicious when the sun is trailing gentle patterns on your skin and the beer more fun under a bright blue sky.
 
 
Looks Like
 
We have places like The Hummingtree in Delhi - minimalistic, industrial grunge influenced spaces with a few pops of quirk and color but we don't tend to have the luxury of space that Bangalore affords. 
 
Tastes Like
 
The menu is a medley of non controversial American and European food, including pizza, pasta and smoothies. The Fusili with Roasted Cherry Tomatoes was heavily Indianized but delicious. The vaguely oriental Lemongrass Grilled Chicken Salad was excellent, with the crunchy lettuce and julienned red cabbage providing support to tender bits of grilled chicken, all generously doused in a coat of sesame seeds and tangy dressing. Also, fantastic was the impossibly soft and buttery French Toast with bananas and cinnamon.
 
Feels Like
 
The service wasn't particularly prompt and they missed part of our order but if you go on a pretty day with an old friend or for a gig with a loud gaggle of people you won't mind.

Thursday, 20 November 2014

RESTAURANT REVIEW: BARSOOM, HAUZ KHAS VILLAGE

For another pretty bar in HKV
 
 
 
I love bars and restaurants with unusual themes and an unusual literary theme is even more irresistible. Edward Rice Burrough's Barsoom might not have been my first choice in fictional settings I want to recreate (that would probably be Enid Blyton's Faraway Tree or the treehouse from Swiss Family Robinson) but I've been excited about this translation of an imaginary planet into an HKV bar nonetheless.

 
Looks Like
 
The extraterrestrial references are subtle and clever, never sinking into tacky obviousness. This is an interpretation of Burrough's work and not an unimaginative replica. The fluid lines, emphasis on contrasting textures and sense of minimalism create an elegant, quiet space removed from the noisy clatter of the neighbouring HKV rabble. The layering of wood, leather and woven textile embellishments and the absence of bird cages demonstrate more depth and maturity in design than I've come to expect from HKV.
 
 
Tastes Like
 
The menu is unique in that while it covers the usual bases, like Pastas, Salads and Soups, the dishes are all over the places geographically. The Lamb Goulash is nestled gently between the Fish and Chips and Barsoom Beef Steak and shares the same page as the Aubergine Parmigiana. It reads a little like a well travelled person's list of favorite foods.
 
The Empanadas (with spinach filling) were a success, delicate leaves of spinach drowning in near molten cheese trapped in crispy fried shells and accompanied by fresh, zingy salsa. As was the perfectly crunchy Boba Feta (feta cheese and watermelon on a bed of arugula and black olives).
 
As Barsoom is run by the guys behind the laid back (now closed) Flipside Café it features Flipside's trademark crepes. I tried the savoury Spinach and Cheese variation and while the crepe itself was perfect, soft without being doughy, fluffy without being too thick, the Spinach and Cheese filling was bland and underwhelming.
 
Fueled by nostalgia for picturesque autumn days spent in Prague a few years ago I ordered the Lamb Goulash with Cous Cous which also turned out to be a damp squib. The curry of the Goulash was think and too sparse to cover the slightly dry cous cous and nothing like the thick, hearty gravy I ate every day in Prague. The "award winning" Banana Chocolate Tart was the only dessert available and though it was good, I'm not sure the batch I got would have won any awards.
 
In terms of the bar menu, I enjoyed the Watermelon Martini but was surprised to find the much more commonplace Mojito was quite amateur.
 
All in all, you can try your luck. The space is intriguing and the food reasonably competent but there are some definite misses on the menu.
 
Feels Like
 
I turned up at Barsoom on a Monday afternoon when the place was completely empty. The staff seemed prompt and helpful but I realize the true test of their worth lies in their ability to handle busier circumstances.  

Thursday, 13 November 2014

RESTAURANT REVIEW: CAPERBERRY RESTAURANT AND TAPAS LOUNGE, BANGALORE

For deconstructing your appetite
 
 
 
I know it's faddish and I should know better but I'm a big fan of molecular gastronomy. I know the movement jumped the shark and is now so passé that to refer to it fondly is to declare yourself irretrievably gauche but the heart wants what the heart wants.
 
I've been wanting to go to Caperberry since I first heard of its opening years ago but kept missing it when I happened to be in Bangalore.
 
Looks Like
 
The space is tiny but charming with a sort of antiqued patina. The pale blue color scheme is unusual but soothing and the warm lighting sets a romantic but formal tone.
 
 
 
Tastes Like
 
I ordered way too much but have few regrets.
 
The Amuse Bouche of the Day (Cheddar with Mango, Cranberry and Lychee) was a gentle wave of sweet fruit followed by a tornado of strong, flavorful cheese. The Chicken and Mozzarella Involtini was a little confused and the over spiced, tikka-esque, chicken drowned out the mozzarella. On the other hand, the Smoked Salmon and Goat Cheese Roulade blew my mind with the soft flesh of the salmon melting into the pungent goat cheese and finally bursting with the crunch of precious caviar. In an ironic twist, Caperberry's Lamb Filo Tartlets irrevocably prove that no quantity of presentation or pretension can ever compete with the near religious fervor inspired by spicy meat filled into a buttery, flakey tart shell.
 
The Imitation Carpaccio is a dish that will now define summer in my head, the compressed watermelon, mint caviar, balsamic jelly, parmesan, arugula, chrysanthemum and micro greens are fabulously refreshing. In the mains the Duck Empredat was the most perfectly cooked duck I've ever had, the meat so tender and acquiescing it would slide off the bone and on to my fork without the slightest resistance.
 
Word of advice, avoid the frankly, quite ordinary cocktails to focus on the excellent food. The Blush Sangria was wishy washy and the Cryo Long Island (with Liquid Nitrogen) was absolutely noxious.
 
Feels Like
 
We were terrible customers. We turned up late, added guests to our table after last order and were easily the loudest in the room. The staff though was incredibly pleasant and accommodating. Our server made very useful suggestions to help us navigate the hard core menu.
 
The restaurant is teeny tiny so it's probably safest to make a reservation.
 
 

Wednesday, 12 November 2014

DIVE BAR REVIEW: 4S

For lawyers, gossip and comfort
 

Dive bars are really hard to review because their appeal is so hard to explain. I usually comment on décor, food and service, 3 things you're probably not going to find at 4S. But that becomes a case of judging a fish by its ability to climb a tree. Anyway the people who frequent the place wont be dissuaded by my post and those who don't can't be tortured into it. So I'm not going to use my usual format for 4S, instead here's a bullet point list on how to navigate the place.
 
1. The answer to any question you may have at 4S is to keep drinking.
 
2. The guy at the next table did just use the term heteronormativity twice in one sentence.  Keep drinking.
 
3. If you must order food restrict yourself to the Masala Peanuts or anything dry, chicken and fried. I strongly recommend you keep drinking.
 
4. Do not embarrass yourself by trying to order an Appletini or anything which has more than 2 ingredients (i.e., booze + coke). They do an unexpectedly good Bloody Mary though.
 
5. Someone may or may not have spotted a dead rat in the girl's loo. Let's not make a thing of it. Keep drinking.
 
6. Be nice to the staff, they're worth it.
 
4S is testament to the old adage that you can't argue with destiny. Defence Colony Market is full up with cheap drinking holes with crappy bar food but the universe keeps us all coming back to 4S.   
  

Sunday, 26 October 2014

RESTAURANT REVIEW: MALGUDI TIFFINS, TERMINAL 1, BANGALORE AIRPORT

For helping ease airport angst

I keep track of airports. They drive me nuts and the only way I can think of dealing with them is to minimize the time I spend there. I prefer the tiny airports we had earlier, where you could walk up to your plane and climb into it but thanks to Messrs. GVK and GMR those are becoming harder to come by these days. Of the renovated leviathans my preferences in order of decreasing fondness are:

1. Hyderabad
2. Terminal 3, New Delhi
3. Bangalore
4. Terminal 1, New Delhi

and last and definitely least, Mumbai. That airport is an absolute hole.

I find myself most often at Terminal 1, New Delhi and while the infrastructure is sound it has absolutely no enjoyable places to eat. The restaurants are sub-par and the food court soul destroying. I've seen better options in B grade malls in B towns. Which is why I was so excited to see the shiny, stylish Malgudi at BIAL.


Looks Like

Considering the confines of airport décor Malgudi does an excellent job of appearing glossy with tasteful south Indian accents, as would be appropriate for an establishment serving this cuisine.


Tastes Like

Since this was to be my last meal in Bangalore, I decided to pull out all the calorific stops.

I love that a meal here starts with a complimentary shot of rasam. This should be made compulsory at all restaurants serving south Indian food.

 The Mutton Sukka (dry mutton) exploded like curry leaf flavored fireworks on the tongue - chunks of tender, boneless mutton doused and battered with a slew of south Indian spices. This dish mandated the ordering of Majjige (buttermilk) which was thinner and less seasoned than what I'm used to but I didn't have time to complain as the Mutton Sukka seared into my tongue. Refusing to learn my lesson I ordered the Ila Set Dosa, slightly sweet but also with the tinge of sour fermented batter brings paired with a fiery, wham-bam-pow Chicken Chettinad. This is the kind of chicken I want to eat with a fat heap of rice and a drizzle of ghee ever Sunday afternoon and follow the meal up with a 2 hour nap. I'd have liked to try the Payasam but had already eaten 2 people's worth of lunch.


Feels Like

Service was prompt and pleasant. A wonderful way to tuck in one last (mostly) authentic south Indian meal before flying out of Bangalore.

 

RESTAURANT REVIEW: KOSHY'S ST. MARKS ROAD, BANGALORE


This dusty little gem has been sitting pretty at St. Mark's Road since 1940 and has in its time served the likes of Jawaharlal Nehru, Nikita Kruschev and Queen Elizabeth II. It's easily the oldest establishment mentioned on this blog and I'm proud to be writing about it.


For those younger and more stylish than I, you might be wondering why I'm not writing about the latest microbrewery that's opened up in Bangalore. I'd like to bring to your attention that Koshy's is very stylish and if you don't believe me, according to the restaurant's website Koshy's is the winner of the MTV's most stylish in Bangalore award. Turns out MTV has better taste than I gave it credit for.


Looks Like

Housed in an statuesque, old building covered with vintage typography, Koshy's is solid in a way buildings just aren't anymore. Enter and you'll enter into high ceilings, slow, bulky ceiling fans and naturally sepia tinted photographs. Make yourself comfortable. It's quickly apparent that it's been a while (probably since Nehru last dropped by) since any of the staff felt the need to rush, so expect your menu and consequently your order to follow at a stately and dignified pace. It made me happy to see that the restaurant, though old isn't rickety or dilapidated, though not hep is not populated only by nostalgia hungry geriatrics and though relaxed is not inefficient or irrelevant. We need to show places like this more love.


Tastes Like

Whilst there are Indian options available, I was looking for a filling breakfast and decided to go in for the Indian "club" food genre. Buttery, hot, Fried Eggs cooked perfectly with just enough runny yolk to mop up with thick slices of Minced Mutton Toast. The toast was comprised of the fattest slices of soft, white bread topped with generously spiced mutton mince and dotted with curry leaves. I added a side of meaty, pork sausages, crackling bacon and washed the entire thing down with a refreshing fresh lime soda made the old fashioned way. That's when they give you a glass, with lime juice and sugar syrup and the soda by the side.

In the evenings the local young people and some not so young people gather to drink Iced Tea and Rum (a combination I'd never heard of before) and catch up on the day while the owner bustles around proudly, making sure the crowds, (or equally likely) the staff aren't overwhelmed.

 
Feels Like

The large hall, minimal foofery and hardcore nostalgia make this place impossible to forget. There was an India before microbreweries and malls and it may not have had wifi but it had grace and authentic charm. The liveried waiters, old ceramic crockery and white table linen hark back to a time when it feels like we had much more class.  

Wednesday, 15 October 2014

RESTAURANT REVIEW: BACI, SUNDAR NAGAR

For the love of a market

 
I'm a huge fan of the aptly named Sundar Nagar Market, there's something so lovely and old wordly about the quiet, genteel place with its overpriced but charming antique, jewellery and tea stores. Unfortunately as I have little need to spend much time buying antiques, jewellery or tea, the only reason I go is to eat or for their Diwali Mela. The eating options are pretty restricted though, limited to a standard issue Nathu's, the all looks no substance Harem O, and the heavy Indian at Lazeez Affaire. So considering this dearth and the great publicity bestowed on Baci I went in expecting a safe bet. Suffice to say I'm going to start collecting antiques if I need a reason to go back to Sundar Nagar.
 

Looks Like

I quite like the way the décor is restrained in shades of beige, wood and white. I love the playful black and white photos of travel through (just a wild guess here) Italy. I particularly like the tiny balcony that looks out on to the tree lined park in the centre of the market.
 
 
Tastes Like

I'd heard so much about the place I was expecting excellent Italian. What I got was pretty middle of the road and maybe if I hadn't had high expectations going in I wouldn't have been so disappointed, but, oh well.

The biggest problem was the summer special of Prosciutto and Melon with listless pieces of melon and rancid strips of prosciutto. Any restaurant capable of serving up spoilt meat is not a restaurant I'll be going back to. As my boss often says, there's a standard below which it is inexcusable to fall.

The Spaghetti Al Frutti Di Mare (Spaghetti Pasta with Fresh Mixed Seafood, Oregano and Tomato) was average. The tomato and oregano sauce mediocre. Much, much better was the Penne Alla Matriciana (Penne Pasta with Bacon, Black Pepper and Fresh Tomato Sauce) with a punchy sauce and chips of glorious, crunchy bacon.

Ordinarily when I have a mediocre meal I give the place another chance but I'd bee having a really busy week and I'd only gotten time to meet my friends for one short lunch and to have that ruined was just so infuriating! I eat out all the time and I get served bad food all the time but I draw my line of tolerance at poor hygiene levels. Baci knows better and can easily afford to make sure they don't serve meat that's stinking off the plate. What really gets my goat is that the customer has no real means of hauling a restaurant up in the face of such an egregious bumbling of health and safety norms. I can send the plate back and get the amount deducted from the bill but that just doesn't seem to be enough. There's an expectation of enjoyment that an establishment may or may not meet but we have a right to clean food that will not make us ill and each restaurant owner, chef and waiter has a duty to make sure that happens.

I guess I'm just tired of restaurants dropping the ball on standards because they know our authorities will drop the ball on enforcing them and eventually no matter how angry a customer is they'll walk away and forget about it.

 
Feels Like

The staff is fine, not stellar and could use a little more training on the menu. They had no idea what to do when they realized their kitchen had messed up though - something they should probably have been taught.

 
Should you go? Don't bother
Liquor License: Yes
Smoking Area: Yes
Address: 23, Main Market, Sundar Nagar
Phone: 011 30146033 Extn 978

Monday, 13 October 2014

BEST RESTAURANTS FOR AMAZING WEATHER! PART I

“Don't knock the weather. If it didn't change once in a while, nine out of ten people couldn't start a conversation.”
― Kim Hubbard
 
1. Indian Accent, Friends Colony - Generally the best restaurant in Delhi at any point of time but when the weather cools down the sunny patio is the perfect place to enjoy Chef Manish Mehrotra's culinary genius.
 
 
2. Market Café, Khan Market - This laid back terrace is where you want to catch a gentle breeze and a drink with a friend without worrying about the frenetic Diwali shopping going on in the market below.
 
3. Le Bistro Du Parc, Defence Colony - A perfectly pretty balcony suitable for romantic evenings and gossipy lunch dates.
 
 
4. Townhall, Khan Market - Bright and full of buzz, watch Khan Market's young and beautiful get their sushi fix on this spacious terrace.
 
 
 5. Café Lota, Pragati Maidan - Amazing food, an adorable craft store next door and a patio meant for breezy afternoons and pleasant evenings.
 
 

Thursday, 9 October 2014

RESTAURANT REVIEW: LE BISTRO DU PARC, DEFENCE COLONY

For Bread Baskets and Jazz Nights
 

Find the food blogger.

I really wanted to like this place and that compulsion might end up coloring this review. Le Bistro Du Parc has opened up across Flavors in place of another French place I was really fond of. I forget the old place's name but can't forget a memorable winter evening I spent there elbow deep in fondue while eavesdropping on a gay couple who were celebrating their dog's birthday. The place wasn't very crowded but I got the feeling (and this may just be because of the cheese induced endorphin rush) everyone there was happy. It's a specific kind of magic Delhi sometimes bestows us with on its winter evenings.
 
But this is not a review of the last French restaurant at the site, this is about Le Bistro Du Parc.
 
 
 Looks Like
 
I love the bright blue wooden French windows of Le Bistro Du Parc and when I went around Christmas time the blue was even prettier against the festive orange of the marigold garlands. See that kind of tiny aesthetic pretension - using indigenous marigold to decorate for our tropical Christmas instead of foolishly copying a gimmicky American Christmas ambience thrills me to bits. Of the spate of French restaurants trying to take over the city, Le Bistro Du Parc gets my vote for trendiest interiors.
 
 
Unfortunately, beauty comes at a price and the much lauded menu on a chalkboard is kind of a pain. The handwriting isn't very clear and I couldn't go through the options as leisurely as I'd like because I felt really bad for the poor waiter holding it up.
 
In the pursuit of cuteness the tables are so tiny and scrunched together so tight that on a busy night you're knocking elbows with the sweet couple of strangers by your side. Also, tiny tables drive me nuts - where am I supposed to put my bag? And how is the waiter supposed to fit more than one dish at a time in front of me without setting up a food version of Jenga?
 
 
Tastes Like
 
I love that the menu is specialized and limited but the consequent implication that they serve a few but excellent dishes doesn't hold true. The options keep changing so what I ate might not be available anymore but the sum of my experience was underwhelming. I appreciate that the restaurant tries to use fresh, local produce - I wish that conscientiousness could extend to the cooking of said produce so I wouldn't have such a hard time writing this review.
 


Love their bread basket! They have really nice, yeasty, slight sour bread.


Le Bistro Du Parc has a lot of promise and clearly also the self awareness and resources to be very good. But right now, at the prices they charge I could get a much more satisfying meal elsewhere.
 

Fresh Garden Salad with Grilled Chicken with overcooked chicken

 Feels Like
 
In terms of ambience Le Bistro Du Parc accomplishes its goal to come as close to a bistro atmosphere as Delhi will permit. The service is mediocre and lacks the sophistication you would expect from this kind of establishment. The kitchen is also really slow considering the limited number of dishes they're working with.
 

Gruyere and Walnut Souffle which was a little too doughy though I'm not even sure it had flour in it.
Le Bistro Du Parc is a fun way to peek into the lives of the chatterati of Delhi who flock here in droves and their jazz evenings sound nice. But if they aspire to be more than just this season's place to be seen they're going to have to knuckle under and figure out their food and service. 

 

Friday, 26 September 2014

RESTAURANT REVIEW: MI FOOD CENTRE

For amazing kebabs. And that's all that matters.

 
I have a love hate relationship with Meharchand Market. I know the India we inhabit, the one with food blogs, holidays abroad and instagram accounts isn't the one everyone gets but nowhere is that more obvious than at Meharchand. Just a few years ago, the place was overrun by small tailoring units with a semi-slum in the back. The tailoring units are gone. The slum remains. Almost every store opened after I moved to this city and the poverty persists, side by side. Fancy cupcakeries with pretty glass doors that are smudged with the hand prints of street children looking in. Pretentious French restaurants with half naked babies sleeping unattended on the sidewalk in front covered with flies. You can stand on the doorstep of a foofy boutique and actually feel you have each foot on a different planet.  Every time I go back there are fewer tailors and more stores peddling Indian kitsch. The restaurant scene has also really taken off but I'm not fan. Elma's is bizarrely structured, Café 88 is pretty much a total bust, Chez Nini gets mixed reviews and after a bad first impression I haven't ventured back. The only place I liked was Bagel's Café which has now been replaced with something called "Tikka Town." In the middle of this blossoming identity crisis, MI Food Centre stands solid, watching fads fade in and out while serving out super kebabs.
 
 
Looks Like

Nobody here has the patience for frills or frippery - the place is clean and efficient without a single bit or bauble to distract you. This austerity extends to not having any seating space so either stand on the sidewalk or get your kebabs to go.
 

Tastes Like

A friend of mine recently had a facebook status that read "It's blasphemous to diet in Delhi, the city that makes the best aloo paranthas and butter chicken, the city that hosts Nathu's and Karim's." In addition to these temptations the average Delhi-ite must also resist the charms of, amongst others, all day happy hours, kebabs/ rolls, biryani and chole kulche which threaten every minute to destroy any attempt at restraint or dieting. It's no wonder I managed to pile on 10 kilograms within months of moving here.

What can I say about the kebabs, rolls and other meaty joy at MI Food Centre? The meat quality is breathtaking and the cooks clearly know what they're doing. Spiced, juicy, succulent (yes, succulent - what can I do I know the word is overused but it's apt here!) morsels of meat, there isn't a weak link in the menu because this isn't that kind of place. These guys aren't "trying," "experimenting," "having fun with flavors." This is real. This is proof that if you have quality ingredients and know, really intrinsically, deeply, experientially know how to cook them, you don't need gimmicks and logos. Hell you don't even need chairs.

Try the transcendental Mutton Seekh, the inspired Chicken Tikka (with butter - the butter makes this chicken butterier than the butteriest butter chicken you've ever tasted. I swear, don't skip the butter), the skillfully Roasted Chicken or the over the top Changezi Chicken with Khamiri Roti.
 

Feels Like

Standing on the street while hungry customers milled around me, this is one of the more memorable meals I've had in a while. As a food blogger I eat out all the time and I sometimes find myself becoming jaded. It was nice to go back to a place that focused solely on making good food. Clearly (and hearteningly) most people seem to concur, the establishment only opens up in the evenings and people flock there every day. The portions are generous and would make great party snacks.

I love my cafes and bistros but I can't help but feel relics like MI Food Centre, with only their food to speak for them, without slick PR teams and jazzy interiors need more of our love and attention.
 

Friday, 19 September 2014

RESTAURANT REVIEW: CAFE LOTA

For celebrating a great idea
 
It's been about a month and a half since I've witnessed pleasant weather in Delhi so when it rained recently I ran out of the door before the humidity had a chance to catch up. Airy, semi-open Café Lota is the perfect spot to enjoy a good weather day in the capital.
 
 
Looks Like

Refreshingly minimalistic, the space is demarcated by jute screens and houses little more than simple tables and chairs with the occasional terracotta knick knack. Set up outside the National Crafts Museum, the café is a favorite of design students doing research and lawyers who loiter after court. Adjoining the space is the charming museum gift shop. While the nets of jute offer playful peeks of sunlight during the winter, they can't hold off the blazing summer sun and so go only when the weather cooperates.
 
 
Tastes Like

I'd heard great things about Lota but wasn't prepared for how much individual character the menu has. Indian classics are reinterpreted in playful and unexpected ways - the dishes reminiscent of the inventiveness of Indian Accent at a tenth of the price.

I loved the Palak Patta Chaat (Crispy Spinach Leaves, Potatoes and Chick Peas topped with spiced Yoghurt and Chutneys). I was expecting a Papdi Chaat with spinach and was totally fascinated by the batter fried spinach leaves that paired perfectly with the cool yoghurt mix. Also amazing are the Mini Rava Idlis (Molgapodi), which is basically a dozen mini idlis tossed with pungent, orange molgapodi and served with coconut chutney. Highly recommended and a priority on my wishlist for my next visit is the Beetroot Chop with Cream Cheese.
 
The mains were impossibly hard to choose, all the options looked so good and I eventually settled on the Parsi Salli Boti (Boneless Goat in a Sweet and Sour Tomato based Gravy topped with Potato Straws). The curry was appropriately rich with a generous helping of crispy fried potato. Whilst usually served with parathas, I preferred pairing the curry with appam to add more tang to the otherwise mild Boti.
 
If you have a sweet tooth, don't skip dessert. I really liked (and my companion nearly passed out over) the Bhapa Doi Cheesecake (Sweetened Steamed Yoghurt on a Crunchy Biscuit Base topped with Almonds and Pistachios). If you're not up for a whole meal stop by for a Bel Sherbet or a cup of a single estate artisanal coffees or a sport of a single estate specialty tea.
 
 
Feels Like
 
In my head Café Lota is a cross between the laid back charm and prices of Gunpowder at its best and the whimsy and imagination of the food at Indian Accent. Considering the phenomenal success the café's enjoyed I hope the appropriate authorities get their act together and start equivalent cafés at the other lovely museums we have in Delhi.